Review #1 - Serra Ristorante, Toronto

It was after an early-morning flight to Toronto, a dayful of meetings the next day, and a nice walk from downtown through Chinatown (well, as nice as a walk through *that* Chinatown can be... it's like the Vancouver one, albeit slightly cleaner, and more than 40% Vietnamese) and past the west side of the U of T, my feet were hating me (bad choice of shoes that day), that I found myself parched since the weather was warmer than normal that day, and beyond that, I was hungry. And not just simply hungry, but in the mood for something tasty, refreshing, invigorating. Something classier. Ravenous, I suppose, would be a decent description.

And so I happened upon the unsuspecting awning that was Serra. Intrigued (mostly because Vancouver is in dire straits for mid-range price good-quality Italian food), I wavered for a bit: did I just want to grab a bi bim bap (which is almost uniformly filling and refreshing, and at least so-so wherever one goes) just down west on Bloor, or did I want to risk it? I looked inside, and saw a few people sitting down and enjoying what seemed to be dessert. That was particularly intriguing, since by my watch it was only 4:30. Finally, I shrugged and said whatever, what doesn't give me listeria sounds good at this point. Let's try something I didn't see anything about anywhere.

And what can I say but that the restaurant was nicely air-conditioned, fresh, and that I had one of the best meals I've had in my short duration of ever visiting Toronto (this being my first time to the city)? The overall experience was very nice, and it is with this segue that I can begin my review in earnest:

Decor: 8/10. When you step in, you are struck by the nice, warm colors of the paintings in contrast to the dark, almost formal nature of the furniture underneath. I can see it creating a cozy feeling at night or in the winter, but in the summer it already made for an already pleasurable experience, particularly with the beautiful gusts of cool air I could feel lightly brushing against my slightly damp skin. Overall, it isn't much special but the general air inside had some kind of wonderful, happy air. I would've given a 9 if not for the fact that the ventilation pipes in the ceiling were still exposed (but to their credit, were tactfully painted over) as well as the more serious problem of the stairs to the downstairs bathroom being very short, and so I almost fell down a flight. That, though, seems to be a rather endemic problem in Toronto with almost all of the buildings.

Service: 8/10. I was greeted by the hostess almost immediately upon entering, and she and another waiter were attentive, continually replenishing my water (which depleted with alacrity every time). The hostess also was very knowledgeable about the menu and recommended both the limoncello I enjoyed with the meal, as well as my dessert. She was attentive and friendly, but her picks did leave a bit to be desired. Nothing over the top or super-special about the service; just good, solid, friendly dispositions and knowledge, as well as good timeliness with presenting food and processing the bill.

Food Taste: I had a limoncello soda to begin my stay at Serra, and my entree was their daily special of a squid ink fettucine, with grilled salmon and tiger prawns, served in a white wine cream sauce with a touch of tomato added. I was very intrigued, since this was the first time I'd ever had a squid ink pasta (and so I also kept my thoughts to myself about how I might accidentally OD on eledoisin if they'd not cooked the pasta properly, if that could be done). Dessert was a honey creme brulee served with almond biscotti and a berry reduction, which the hostess told me was the "house special and secret".

A trio of breads (sorry, I'd already eaten one before remembering to take pictures) was also served with an olive tapenade. That bread was actually very nice, because of the three distinct textures (one soft, one crispy, and the third a flaky wafer which was the one I'd devoured in my senseless haze of hunger pangs) that left me eagerly anticipating the entree.

Pasta: 33/35. I honestly was unsure as to what squid ink pasta would taste like. I was pretty certain it wouldn't taste like a Bic Pen (don't ask me how I know) but I couldn't help but wonder if it had a very numbing, or bitter taste on the mouth, given what I know of its chemical composition.

I was so surprised! What squid ink does is add a clam-like flavor directly into the noodles, so that instead of soaking up flavor, they actually impart flavor onto the other components in the dish. The clam flavor is very fresh-sea aroma, but also with a slight hint of sweetness as an aftertaste. When balanced alongside perfectly cooked salmon and a beautifully light cream sauce, it worked well with the bits of tomato as a citrus counterbalance. This would've rated even higher, if the prawns had had a bit more flavor (they actually were the least tasty component of the dish) and hadn't been overcooked (a slight bit of stringy texture). The parmesan cheese grated freshly before me added an extra taste to the dish which helped to create a conflux of wonderful tastes.

Dessert: 12/15. When I have creme brulee, I tend to expect the burnt sugar shell on top, followed by a steaming custard of sort underneath (or something lukewarm). What was interesting was that the creme brulee was actually somewhat cold underneath. In one way, that helped it to match better with the fresh berries used in the compote to the side, but in another, I think it made it so the biscotti didn't soften if one dipped it into the custard (as I could see the latent steam of a hot creme brulee potentially moistening the biscotti enough to make it a crunchy, yet moist texture). The biscotti and fruit actually stole the show: the slight tinge of citrus flavor in the cookie itself, when combined with the slivered almonds inside, made for a wonderful balance that I only wish was in a softer cookie that I could enjoy. The fruit balanced each other perfectly and the orange sauce tied them together very nicely without the use of any excess herbs (mint, anise, etc). The creme brulee was actually quite standard, though I was expecting something a little sweeter since honey tends to have more of a molasses/caramel taste compared to normal sugar. It wasn't bad per se, but for a principal component of a dish, it was remarkably obscured by its substituents.

Food presentation: 8/10. I can appreciate the inherent difficulty of making squid ink pasta look attractive, and they at least didn't do it an injustice by making it look more like long black strings. The dessert did look cute, but the triangle plate effect is lost if the three points aren't actually used for separate things. However, everything looked good in that light.

Price: 13/20. $17.50 for the pasta was quite reasonable for what I was expecting. The Limoncello at $3 and dessert at $6.25 were a little more debatable, particularly because of the very formulaic nature and taste of the dessert. For a restaurant of that decor, the price was about par for what I was expecting, though the portion size of the pasta wasn't completely satisfactory (though that might've been because it was *so* good).

Bonus: +2 points. Because of the exceptional bread and tapenade.

Grade: 84/100, or a very high A- .